MY FIRST TIME ON TRACK. WHAT SHOULD I BUY FOR MY MOTORCYCLE? WHAT SHOULD I DO TO IT?

1–VERY BASIC CHECK.

This should be done regularly… but it’s quite common to neglect certain aspects.

-Engine oil and oil filter: During track sessions you will almost certainly demand a bit more from your bike than usual. The most basic thing is to make sure the oil level is correct. It is highly recommended that the oil is as “fresh” as possible, meaning you shouldn’t be right at the limit for an oil change by mileage or time.

We assume that you change the oil filter at every oil change.

-Air filter: At the very least, blow it out at the petrol station and clean the airbox. If it’s dirty and old, replace it.

-Brake fluid: There are bikes out there with brake fluid that’s about to come of age. Without hesitation, change the brake fluid. If you can, at least choose a sport-oriented DOT 4 with a wet boiling point of around 170–180ºC.

-Brake pads: Expect higher wear than on the road. Check whether they are slightly or heavily glazed; to do this, remove them from the calipers and inspect them.

-Coolant: Renew it without hesitation. If you’re doing track days in hot weather, even more reason to do so.

-Radiator cap: Check that it’s working correctly. It’s not just a simple cap. It’s responsible for retaining pressure in the cooling system and, when necessary, releasing excess pressure through an overpressure valve.

-Radiator: If you’ve got a collection of insects embedded in the radiator fins, carefully remove them to recover some cooling efficiency.

-Tyres: An essential part of the whole setup. Check the wear indicators. Make sure they’re not stepped or hardened due to age. If there’s one worthwhile expense, it’s investing in a more sport-oriented set of tyres.

-Final drive kit: Check that your chain doesn’t have seized links and that the sprockets aren’t worn out. Once done, clean the kit and lubricate it.

-Fork seals: The most basic requirement is that they’re not leaking oil down the forks. That’s the bare minimum.

2–RECOMMENDED CHECK.

If the previous points are all OK and you want to take the (logical) step towards a better setup, let’s look at more aspects to review.

-Brake calipers: Have you ever serviced your brake calipers?

It’s common for 90% of people to admit they haven’t, even though they may have upgraded the master cylinder and hoses.

Brake calipers have pistons that, over time, accumulate a lot of dirt on the unseen side, behind the seals. This causes the pistons not to extend or retract evenly, leading to abnormal brake pad wear. Clean them thoroughly and be amazed at the braking performance you had when you first bought the bike.

-Brake hoses: We’re still dealing with standard hoses that expand under heavy braking, and this only gets worse with age. If your brakes feel like they’re fading, consider switching to braided stainless steel hoses.

-Front suspension: The next step for the forks is a very advisable oil change, as that oil may have been in there for years. Rear shock absorbers, generally in standard form, don’t allow for maintenance, although some workshops can change the oil by creating a drainage port.

-Bolt check: A visual check of the whole bike will surprise you with a few loose bolts and maybe even one missing. Ideally, go over the entire bike with a torque wrench. If you don’t have one, at least give everything a basic check.

-Clutch cable lubrication: Ideally, use the proper tool for this, as it will smooth out its operation.

-And to round off the recommended check: Visually inspect the condition of the wheel bearings, the correct operation of the rear suspension linkage (if fitted), and check the steering head bearings. In general, inspect any bearing or area subject to movement. Grease where necessary with the appropriate grease.

And that’s as far as we go for checks before a first track day. We’ll talk later about what to do if you enjoy it and want not just to improve, but to properly adapt the bike to the circuit and its demands.